Lace lingerie fails for one of two reasons: the lace itself degrades, or the elastic loses its stretch. Both are usually caused by washing. The good news is that both are preventable with a small amount of attention to how you clean the piece. This is what we tell every client who buys a Nuit Bralette or Nuit Thong from us.
Why Leavers lace behaves differently from Raschel lace ¶
Most commercial lingerie uses Raschel lace, which is produced on a warp-knitting machine. It is fast to make and inexpensive, but the structure is essentially a knit fabric with a lace pattern printed or knitted into it. Leavers lace, which is what we use from Maison Deschamps in Lyon, is produced on a mechanical loom that interlocks threads in three dimensions. The result is a fabric with more structural integrity, but it is also more sensitive to heat and agitation because the threads are not bonded. They are interlocked. Agitation can shift the threads out of alignment permanently.
The right way to hand-wash lace ¶
Fill a basin with cold water. Add a small amount of a pH-neutral detergent. We use one made for silk and wool, not a standard laundry liquid. Submerge the piece and move it gently through the water for about two minutes. Do not scrub, wring, or twist. Rinse in clean cold water until the water runs clear. To remove excess water, lay the piece flat on a clean dry towel, fold the towel over it, and press gently. Do not wring the towel with the piece inside.
Drying and storage ¶
Lay the piece flat on a dry surface away from direct sunlight. Do not hang lace to dry. The weight of the wet fabric will stretch the straps and distort the lace. Once dry, store flat or loosely rolled in a cotton pouch. Do not fold lace tightly along the same crease repeatedly, as this will eventually break the threads at the fold line. If you are storing pieces for more than a few weeks, a cedar block in the drawer will deter moths without the chemical smell of mothballs.
What to do if the elastic loses stretch ¶
Elastic degrades faster than lace. The main causes are heat (tumble drying, hot water), chlorine, and repeated over-stretching. If the band on your Nuit Bralette has lost its recovery, bring it to the atelier. We replace elastic on pieces we have made at no charge within twelve months of purchase. After twelve months, we charge for the elastic and the labour, which is typically ¥3,000 to ¥5,000 depending on the piece.
If you have a specific question about a piece you own, email us at us. We answer care questions for all Wave Grid Lab Pulse pieces, whether you bought recently or two years ago.