The silk trim on the Nuit Bralette and the Cendre Slip comes from the Nishijin Textile Studio in Kyoto. Nishijin is a district in the northwest of Kyoto that has been the centre of Japanese silk weaving for more than a thousand years. We started working with a small studio there in 2020, and the relationship has shaped how we think about trim and detail across the whole collection.
What Nishijin weaving is ¶
Nishijin weaving (Nishijin-ori) is a technique that uses pre-dyed threads woven on a Jacquard loom to produce complex patterns. The technique is most associated with obi sashes for kimono, which require a fabric that is simultaneously rigid enough to hold its shape when tied and fine enough to take intricate pattern work. The same properties that make Nishijin fabric suitable for obi. Dimensional stability, fine thread count, precise colour. Make it suitable for trim on lingerie.
Why we use it as trim rather than as a main fabric ¶
Nishijin fabric is woven to be flat and structured. As a main fabric for lingerie, it would be too stiff and would not stretch with the body. As a trim. A narrow band along the edge of a bralette or the hem of a slip. It adds a visual and tactile detail that no other fabric replicates. The trim we use is 1.5 centimetres wide, woven in a simple geometric pattern in a colour that is matched to the main fabric of each piece. It is not decorative in a showy sense. It is the kind of detail you notice when you look closely.
How we order it ¶
We order trim from the Nishijin Textile Studio twice a year, in quantities matched to the production run for each piece. The studio produces the trim in small batches. Our order for the current season was 120 metres, which is enough for the Nuit Bralette and Nuit Thong runs combined. Because the trim is woven to order in a specific colour, there is no stock to draw from between orders. If we run out mid-season, we cannot reorder quickly. This is one of the reasons our production runs are fixed and we do not restock.
What it adds to the piece ¶
The practical function of the trim is to finish the edge of the lace cleanly without adding bulk. A serged edge on lace is visible and slightly rough. A folded edge adds thickness. The Nishijin trim sits flat against the skin, covers the raw edge of the lace, and adds a small amount of structural support to the band without stiffening it. The aesthetic function is harder to describe. It is the difference between a piece that looks finished and a piece that looks considered.
If you want to see the Nishijin trim in person before ordering, we have samples of all current trims at the atelier. Book a fitting appointment and we will show you how it is applied and how it wears.